Normally, I use a combination of tissue fitting (a la Fit For Real People) and winging it. But this dress is going to be made of nice materials, so it requires less 'winging it' and more actual effort. Fit For Real People is great, but I think large adjustments are more accurate on the fabric.
|Significant alterations required at the top of the bust!|
|This is the Elomi Occasions basque. Boned cups mean that even my bust doesn't need strap support.|
I measured myself over my foundation garment of choice - it requires a second person to put it on, so I can only fit things while Chris is home! I have a 15cm (6") difference between my high bust and full bust. Incidentally, my underbust is the same size as my high bust. As I'm sewing a formal dress and wearing tight underclothing, I don't want or need much ease. Silk crepe de chine and georgette have some mechanical stretch, so a very fitted muslin bodice should ease well with the fashion fabrics.
|Gratuitous shot of beautiful underthings. Mind the hipster jeans muffin-top!|
|You can see by my silhouette and the huge seam allowance at the top that the pattern was large everywhere except over the bust.|
The back is harder, because I have to twist around to pin-fit... which completely *changes* the fit. Sigh. Chris says the back is "fine", but I need him to pin me back into it and photograph it so I can be sure. He's brilliant at all kinds of things, but I'm not sure how much I trust his fitting judgement!
I traced the new front shape onto paper. This gave me the opportunity to straighten seams and grainlines. I also added about an inch to the top of the middle front piece... my basque has substantial cup coverage, and I'm not planning for it to peek out the top of my dress!
|That line on the piece on the right is where the original neckline sat. I like cleavage, but there would have been too much underwear on display.|
Then I traced the corrected pieces onto some fresh muslin. Side note: muslining seems very wasteful, fabric-wise. I wouldn't do it often, for this reason alone.
I've re-sewed the front together, and this time added the straps and back pieces. The straps sit oddly, which I think is a function of too-big seam allowances and thick fabric. This fit is nearly perfect for my requirements. I just need to retry it with the basque on, and check the back fit again.
|Greatly improved, and should cover the cups of the basque.|
I'm sorry this post turned out to be so epic! I'd love your thoughts on my muslin, the fitting process I've followed, or indeed anything else that occurs to you!